How do you change sparkplugs on 1997 f-150 5.4L? - Answers (2024)

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How do you change sparkplugs on 1997 f-150 5.4L? - Answers (1)

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Updated:

10/23/2022

How do you change sparkplugs on 1997 f-150 5.4L? - Answers (7)

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15y ago

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= How to Change Spark Plugs on 4.6 & 5.4 Liter = By DaveWest I've replaced plugs on quite a few 5.4Ls now (the 4.6L withplug wires is similar) and once you've done a set they really arenot as bad as they look. Contrary to what some people will say, youdon't have to remove the fuel rails. The Coil on Plug (COP)assemblies will come out past the fuel rail. I take an old piece ofseat foam and put it on top of the radiator support to the engineto allow me to lay on it without hurting my tummy. It makes the jobway less painful. Start by removing the cover over the throttlebody (the black plastic cover that says "5.4" on it). There arethree 10mm head bolts that hold it on. Next remove the air intaketube from the throttle body to the air filter housing. You loosenthe hose clamps at either end of it; disconnect the connector onthe AT (about half way up the air intake hose), the pull out thesmall hoses that go into the air intake tube near the throttlebody. Next remove the brace from the Power Steering reservoir tothermostat housing. There are three 8mm or 5/16" head screws thathold it on. Now you should be able to see the COPs. To remove theCOPs you can use a 7mm or 9/32" wrench or nut driver or socket,extension and ratchet or all of the above. If you turn the fuelinjectors to the side it will give you more room to work with theCOPs. Unplug the connector on each COP by pressing the tab in andpulling on the connector. After you're done that just twist andpull the COPs out. A couple of the COPs on the driver's side and #4on the passenger's side are a bit hard to get at but with somepatience they will come out. After you've removed the COPs take ablow gun and blow out the spark plug holes. Don't be surprised ifthere is rust and junk in them. Next you can actually remove theplugs. Use a combination of extensions, swivels (universal joints),sockets and ratchets to get at them. Whatever works best for you isgood. On the harder ones to get at I usually use a socket with a 4"extension, then a swivel, then a long extension, then the ratchet.The plugs are way down in the hole which is why I use the extensionthen the swivel. The swivel makes it easier to clear the firewall.Set the gap on the new plugs to whatever it says on your emissionsdecal on the radiator support....usually .052-.056". Apply a smallamount of anti-seize to the threads only on the spark plug. You canuse a piece of vacuum hose or fuel hose over the end of the plug toget it started in the hole. Carefully start the plugs in theirholes. If you can't get them most of the way in by hand with thehose take a look and see why not. Cross threaded plug threads areno fun! The plugs are to be tightened to 13 lb-ft. which is justhand tight with a short ratchet. Don't over tighten them! Thethreads in the aluminum heads have enough problems as it is. Afterthat just put everything back together in reverse order. Apply somedielectric grease to the plug boots as well to help seal them. I'vedone enough of these that I can replace the plugs in approximately45 minutes but don't be surprised if the first time you do it takesa few hours.

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